Author: Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition

Spring has sprung and many in Southwest Montana are itching to get out and go climbing. Which brings us to the big question – can we go climbing during a pandemic???

Right now the most important thing to do is to follow public health official guidelines and state/local requirements. Things change frequently, but it’s important to stay up to date with the latest information and advisories. The Montana Department of Health and Human Services coronavirus website is here. Be sure to also check the County health department website for wherever you might be, as things vary by locality. As climbers, we need to consider what health officials are saying and apply their guidance and direction to our climbing decisions, erring on the side of caution for the health of all.

Nobody at SMCC is an epidemiologist and we don’t feel it’s our place to dictate individual actions, however, the BLM, Forest Service, and Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks can and will close climbing crags and access points if there are large groups and inadequate social distancing.  Although the Governor’s restrictions are subject to change, here are our guidelines for the current situation (as of May 1, 2020). 

• Be nice to people. 
• Don’t go to the crag if you’re having COVID-19 symptoms, no matter how mild, or think you may have been exposed to COVID-19.
• We don’t know if climbing surfaces hold the virus, so assume they do.
• You could be an asymptomatic carrier, so only climb with people in your household.
• Select objectives that are well within your limit and climb cautiously.
• Avoid busy climbing areas and crowded trailheads. If your first choice is busy, go to a second option, and maybe even a third.
• Don’t put the rope or gear in your mouth.
• Stay six to ten feet away from those not in your household, whether you’re climbing, belaying, hiking, or hanging out at the crag.
• Use hand sanitizer before and after climbing a route, eating, and going to the bathroom.
• Bring a wag bag and know how to use it.
• Keep it local. This is not the time to go to Ten Sleep (or anywhere out of state) but if you do travel, be self-sufficient with food and water. Montana has a 14-day quarantine for anybody entering the state – this applies if you leave for a weekend and come back too!
• Remember, not everybody has the same access to the outdoors that we have here in Montana. Be considerate of others emotional health when posting on the internet.

Until there is a vaccine, we have to figure out how we can modify our behavior to reduce the impact of this virus. Each week we are learning a lot more and things change frequently, so please stay in tune with what is happening and alter your actions accordingly

SMCC discourages the use of all equipment and material that is auxiliary to the permanently affixed metal safety hardware, which includes: bolts, bolt hangers, and/or rappel and lower-off anchors. 

Such equipment and material includes: “perma” or permanent draws; project draws; tat, or slings or cord used for temporary rappels; or other equipment or tools installed or cached by individuals for personal use.

The use of said equipment and materials threatens access in the following ways:

• On public lands administered by the US Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, abandonment of personal property is in violation of 36 CFR §261.10(e). Similarly, abandonment of personal property is prohibited on public lands administered by the Department of Interior, Bureau of Reclamation, under 43 CFR §8365.1-2(b). Therefore, leaving personal equipment should be considered in violation of the laws surrounding use of public lands. 
• Hanging temporary or “permanent” materials have frequently been cited as being an eyesore to the non-climbers who share public lands with the climbing community. Climbing hardware is seen as being a non-natural addition, and a potential distraction to users who are visiting to experience nature.
• In areas with special cultural significance for Indigenous People, climbing hardware and/or materials may be considered offensive.
• Equipment installed on the permanently affixed hardware is susceptible to higher failure rates and shorter lifespan. In some cases, its wear and subsequent failure has caused catastrophic injury and/or death. 
• The SMCC does not have a plan to replace or remove worn or abandoned equipment.  It is therefore unclear who will accept the responsibility of caretaking. This leads to a scenario where abandoned equipment, such as perma draws, are more likely to become worn and potentially fail.  

Note:

The SMCC has no plan to remove or replace abandoned equipment (e.g., perma draws, project draws, tat, or slings or cord used for temporary rappels) from local crags, nor does SMCC promote the theft or removal of personal gear from a route. The SMCC recommends that climbers address differences of opinion about these practices among themselves in an open, mature manner with a primary focus on protecting access to climbing.  

Recommended Best Practice

SMCC encourages the climbing public to adopt a strategy to help promote continued access and safety in Southwest Montana’s natural climbing resources: 

• Do not leave any personal equipment on any climbing or rappel route, unless it is for a warranted safety concern;
• Leaving “project” draws up for an extended amount of time is strongly discouraged as this is in violation of Federal regulations;
• Before leaving materials at the crag, the situation should be considered appropriately and with care, and with the consideration that to leave such materials is a threat to future access. The community must act as a whole in an appropriate manner to ensure continued access. 

Definitions:

• “Perma” draw – a clipping unit (constructed of any material) that is intended to remain affixed to the bolt hanger(s) of a route in perpetuity. Also known as a “fixed” draw.
• Project draw – a clipping unit (constructed of any material) that is installed by an individual with the intention to remain on a route until the user removes them at their discretion.
• Tat – short for “tattered.” Abandoned hardware (usually sling or rope material). 

Join SMCC, along with Patagonia ambassador Anne Gilbert Chase on Thursday, May 23rd from 5-8pm at MAP Brewing in Bozeman, to learn how climbers and skiers can protect the public lands they love. Right now, we’re at an important moment in time for the Custer Gallatin National Forest (home to Hyalite Canyon, the Beartooth Mountains, and more) and your involvement in the current forest plan revision will influence the future of these places for generations to come. A majority of our climbing resources in SW Montana are within the bounds of the Custer Gallatin National Forest.
Need more motivation to show up? Patagonia has provided some sweet gear to give away AND is buying the beer! (while supplies last).
Thank you MAP Brewing Co. for hosting!

The mission of SMCC is to secure, protect, and maintain climbing resources. To achieve such objectives, this all-volunteer organization encourages responsible stewardship for those that use the land, trails, and rock in southwest Montana. On the behalf of all climbers, SMCC volunteers negotiate with landowners, work with government land managers, and build and improve climbing trails.  These efforts are part of SMCC’s primary focus to ensure that climbers maintain a reputation of being responsible, self-maintaining users of public and private land.  Toward that end, SMCC is launching a new program in 2019 to replace potentially dangerous, permanent hardware on established climbing routes.

To initiate the program, SMCC received a grant from the Access Fund’s Anchor Replacement Fund.  SMCC has also received donations of hardware from local climbers.  At first, only the oldest, most worn and corroded bolts will be targeted. In the future, with additional donations of funds, hardware, and volunteer-hours, the program will expand and address hardware replacement on a larger scale.

The SMCC is you, acting as a member of an organized coalition of responsible climbers.  Through the donations of funds, hardware, and labor we all help to secure the future of climbing in southwest Montana.  Begin now by reporting an unsafe anchor or volunteering your time to help replace one.  Also, if you see an unsafe anchor and have the means and necessary experience to fix it, then fix it!

Special Note:

The SMCC policy is to maintain the original style in which a route was established.  First ascensionists will be given the opportunity to decide whether or not their route should be altered.  The SMCC also does not promote the addition of hardware (i.e., lead bolts) to existing climbs that would alter bolt spacing or replace the need to place gear (e.g., nuts, cams, etc.).

The SMCC will not provide funds or hardware for new route development.  However, SMCC does recommend that new route development use only climbing industry accepted stainless steel bolts and anchors in order to extend their usable lifespan and prevent premature replacement efforts in the future.

Through its Hardware Replacement Program, the SMCC’s aim is to provide resources and training opportunities that will assist in mitigating potentially dangerous hardware on established routes. The SMCC does not undertake or assume a responsibility to insure that any fixed hardware is strong, properly placed or safe. It is each climber’s responsibility to evaluate routes and make all decisions incident to climbing them, to climb safely, and to inspect and make individual decisions regarding the safety and reliability of fixed anchors.

A primary goal of this program is to help mitigate the risk of an area being closed because of a climbing accident.  You can help by using this link to report an unsafe anchor or volunteering your time to help replace one: https://forms.gle/JxEcqvRG7DWYSCRf8

The 9th Annual Butte Bouldering Bash
Benefiting the Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition
Presented by: The American Alpine Club (Montana Section)
October 13th 2018
The Trailer Boulders
Butte, Montana

COME OUT AND ENJOY:
– Bouldering in Superbia, The Druthers & Trailer Boulders
350+ problems
– Bouldering Competition
Registration starts at 8am
Competition from 10am-4pm
– Raffle
– Films from Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival: Best of the Fest Tour
Films start at sundown
– Food, Fun & Community

Cost: $40

for more information visit: http://www.montanabouldering.com/p/9th-annual-butte-bouldering-bash.html

https://www.facebook.com/events/344111146333775/?ref=br_rs